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are spider lilies poisonous to humans

are spider lilies poisonous to humans Red Spider Lily, Lycoris radiata, heirloom bulbs – The Southern Bulb Co

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are spider lilies poisonous to humans Red Spider Lily, Lycoris radiata, heirloom bulbs – The Southern Bulb CoRed Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata): A Gardener's Guide to the Enchanting Resurrection Flower Red spider lilies are beloved perennials that thrive in zones 7 10, bringing a burst of vibrant beauty to gardens when fall rains arrive. A Lily of Many Names: The Red Spider Lily's Regional Nickname: One of our favorite things about the red spider is its many names as you travel across the country. This also makes for interesting conversations with our

Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata): A Gardener's Guide to the Enchanting Resurrection Flower

Red spider lilies are beloved perennials that thrive in zones 7-10, bringing a burst of vibrant beauty to gardens when fall rains arrive.

A Lily of Many Names: The Red Spider Lily's Regional Nickname:

One of our favorite things about the red spider is its many names as you travel across the country. This also makes for interesting conversations with our customers to make sure that we are talking about the same flowering bulb. The names don't change the striking beauty of this fall-blooming flower. Here in East Texas, we call it the "red spider lily". It is red, and the stamens look like spider legs. Along the coast, it is often referred to as a "hurricane lily" because it often blooms after the first fall hurricane. Many people call this a "naked lady" because it blooms on a naked stalk. Others simply call it a "surprise" lily because it shows up out of nowhere and surprises you one day with a flower. No matter what it is called, its beauty will make you glad that you have it in your garden.

The Red Spider Lily's Unique Bloom Cycle: A Timeline

Understanding the Red Spider Lily's bloom cycle is key to successful cultivation. Most people still expect to see something growing during the summer months. You won't see anything. These lilies are dormant in the summer. The flowers suddenly appear with the first later summer or early fall rains. One day there is nothing growing and then suddenly you have a surprise, a fully blooming flower! That is why they are called "Surprise lilies". Yellow spider lilies act very similarly to yellow spider lilies, schoolhouse lilies, and naked ladies. Simply put, they bloom in the fall and then have foliage for the winter. I have spider lilies planted almost 2 years ago that have not yet produced blooms but have produced increasing foliage each year.

1. Planting (Anytime): Avoid hard freezes, but otherwise you can plant the bulbs anytime that you are thinking about them.
2. Dormancy (Summer): Bulbs rest underground, conserving energy.
3. Surprise Blooms (Late Summer/Early Fall): Flowers emerge seemingly overnight.
4. Foliage Growth (Fall/Winter): Leaves appear, gathering nutrients for the following year.

Nurturing the Foliage: The Key to Red Spider Lily Success

The foliage is vital for the bulb's health and reproduction. Don't be discouraged if you don't see blooms the first year – healthy foliage is a positive sign of bulb establishment. The foliage tells you the bulb is growing and multiplying. We know that we all want to see the beautiful unusual blooms in the fall, but the foliage is very important. The foliage is what allows the bulb to grow and multiply. Many people get very concerned if they don't see the spider lily bloom the first year that they plant it and believe that maybe the bulb isn't any good. The foliage is what you watch for if you don't see your spider lily bloom, or even if you do.

Below you will see a picture of the foliage of the red spider lily - it looks like grass. We took the picture on November 1st. The foliage has been popping out of the ground a little over the previous couple of weeks, but now you can really see the stand. All of those different tufts of foliage are bulbs, and someday you will see a beautiful stand of red spider lilies here. In this area because of the super dry summer, not one red spider lily bloomed. However, you can see that the bulbs are growing. The foliage is up and ready to take in nutrients over the next several months while helping the bulbs grow, mature, and multiply. I know you will have to take our word for it, but there wasn't even 1/2 that much foliage there last year which shows you how quickly the bulbs multiply. The foliage will continue to grow. Even if it gets hit by a winter cold snap, it will have taken in nutrients for months! Always allow the foliage to die down naturally and don't cut it off. If you cut it, you are killing the bulb. Once the foliage is completely dead which is usually around the beginning of May, this area can be mowed. Remember, it takes a lot of energy for the bulb to push that bloom up out of the ground and open wide. The more time the bulbs can take in nutrients, the more energy they will have for that fall bloom.

Sunlight Requirements: Ensuring a Spectacular Bloom

The single most important thing about landscaping with spider lilies is the sun. They need at least 6+ hours a day of WINTER sun. That means about 6-8 hours of sunlight during the winter months. If you look at the photo above, you will see that they are in the shade of the trees. You can be sure that most, if not all, of those trees, will lose their leaves in the winter when the greenery needs sunlight. The spider lily puts on its foliage during the winter (November - May) and that is when it takes in the nutrients it needs to produce those golden flowers the following September. The winter foliage soaks up sun energy during winter as it prepares for summer dormancy. The foliage normally completely dies down by around May.

Planting and Care Tips for Red Spider Lilies

Don't plant the bulb too deep. You will plant the bulbs 2-3 times deep the height of the bulb (so if your bulb is 2" tall, then you will plant it 4-5 inches deep). You can plant 2-3 per hole to make the blooms look more natural. Spider lilies really do well in any type of soil. They thrive in soil that has plenty of organic material mixed in, but they do not require fertilizer. Newly planted bulbs would actually be harmed by exposure to fertilizer, so if you are going to apply nutrients, limit the application to established plants when the plants are producing their green leafy foliage during the winter. After planting the bulbs, water the soil thoroughly. Damp soil is ok, as long as the bulbs are in a spot where they will receive plenty of winter sun and the foliage is allowed to die down naturally in the spring. Standing water is not good. Once the summer season starts the spider lily will do best in soil that dries out a bit, as this facilitates its entry into the dormant stage when its leaves die back. This period is followed by its blooming season when it will reward daily watering with long-lasting blooms. Too much moisture in the soil will lead to the bulbs rotting.

Planting Depth: Plant bulbs 2-3 times their height deep.

Soil Type: While adaptable, they thrive in soil rich in organic matter.

Watering: Water thoroughly after planting and during dry periods. The bulbs are dormant during the summer so you don't need to water them.

Fertilizer: Avoid fertilizing newly planted bulbs; established plants benefit from fertilizer during active foliage growth.

The performance of red spider lilies primarily hinges on two factors:

1. Winter Sunlight: To produce lush blooms, the bulbs need to absorb sufficient nutrients from the winter sun. Energy stored over months is used to create these breathtaking blossoms. For this, they require at least six hours of winter sun for several months to ensure they have the energy needed.

2. Fall Rains: The magic trigger for these blooms is the arrival of fall rains. Without adequate rainfall in September, the bulbs won't bloom, as the rains are the signal they've been waiting for.

Dividing and Multiplying Your Red Spider Lily Garden

Early spring is ideal for dividing, but it can be done whenever convenient. Remember, transplanting might cause the lilies to skip a blooming cycle.

Companion Plants for Red Spider Lilies: A Symphony of Color

Enhance your garden's beauty by pairing Red Spider Lilies with other perennials, annuals, or bulbs for continuous blooms:

Perennials: Salvias, Lantanas, Plumbago, Phlox
Annuals: Alyssum, Snapdragons, Pansies, Cyclamen
Bulbs: Narcissus, Iris, Snowflakes, Rain Lilies, Crinums, Hymenocallis

FAQ's

Do animals bother the red spider lilies?

Pollinators adore yellow spider lilies...hummingbirds, bees, and butterfilies.

While deer will eat anything (including plastic flowers if hungry enough), spider lilies are more resistant to their urges than many other ornamental garden products. They definitely leave the foliage alone during the winter, but can be attracted to the bright flowers. So the answer to this question, is that they are mostly resistant, depending on how hungry the deer are. Remember, humans ate tulips during times of hunger/famine, yet tulips definitely aren’t on our menu either.

We understand that online sources sometimes raise concerns about toxicity, so we want to offer some clarification. Much of the alarm you may see online stems from generalized or exaggerated toxicity listings. In reality, cases of actual poisoning are extremely rare, and the plants are not considered a serious risk. While red spider lily bulbs, like many ornamental bulbs, do contain alkaloids that could cause mild irritation if ingested in large quantities, they are not considered dangerous to humans or animals under normal garden conditions. The key is that even for mild irritation they would need to be fully consumed in large quantities. Even if animals chew on the bulbs a little bit, they aren't interested in them (even deer who have been known to eat plastic flowers leave them alone). In fact, they’ve been grown safely in Southern gardens for generations—including in areas with pets and children. You can feel confident they won’t pose a hazard just by being in your garden.

When should I plant red spider lilies? How far in advance should lily bulbs be planted before the first frost in the fall?

For fall planting, aim to have fall lily bulbs in the ground at least four weeks before the first frost. This gives them time to get settled and adjusted before the freeze. You can plant red spider lilies anytime, but avoid a hard freeze.

How do you ship red spider lilies?


During the spring, we ship these vibrant bulbs "in the green," which means they are plump, healthy, and eager to be planted. Expect the foliage to yellow and die back naturally—this is a normal process where the leaves nourish the bulbs for future blooms. Once the foliage is dead, you can cut it off. The rest of the year we ship dormant bulbs. Plant them, water them, and then just wait. Remember - you won't see anything during the summer as the bulbs are dormant. You may not see blooms the first fall depending on when you planted the bulbs. Many perennial bulbs need 6-12 months in the ground before they bloom.

Your Red Spider Lily Journey Starts Today!

Order your Red Spider Lily bulbs now and witness the magic of these captivating flowers in your own garden. With their unique charm and resilience, they are guaranteed to become a treasured part of your landscape.

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EDominguez
Whiting, US
★★★★★ 5
Great receiver for money!
Style: 7.2 Receiver
I got this to replace my lackluster Onkyo TX-NR6050 I purchased from Costco. Three areas stand out for me with the Yamaha receiver: 1: Audio, movies sound great, dialogue is clear. Action scenes are impactful and dynamic. 2: Picture quality, bright, vibrant and beautiful colors from my PC and from my Firestick. 3: Ease of use, out of the box ready to go. Menu is dated (no gui really just an overlay, which is fine by me). Renaming inputs, adjusting speaker settings and setting EQ preferences super easy. Took about 20-25 minutes to fully setup. In those 20-25 minutes I was already way ahead of the Onkyo. Great value for the price! Volume is very easy to set! Still have to test PS5 performance, Bluetooth connectivity, USB settings, WiFi and a few other items. I’ll probably end up buying a Blu-ray player since this was so easy to setup! Or maybe use my PS5/Xbox One :)
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Reviewed in the United States on October 15, 2025
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Verified Purchase
Yacht Design Software Developer
New York, US
★★★★★ 5
Solid 2 Zone Receiver / Amplifier - Excellent video and Audio
Style: 7.2 Receiver
I purchased this Yamaha to replace the 10YO previous version that no longer decoded SiriusXM. This new clean front panel design and much improved remote control are easy to use once installed. I have to say the only complexity I have run into is connecting 3 smart devices together - NVIDIA Shield PRO Streaming Box, RX V6A Receiver and LG OLED TV via HDMI chain from Streaming to Receiver to TV with no audio or video passing through the TV first. The only issues that result is getting all 3 to play nicely when switching on and off via a single (NVIDIA) remote control. It is nothing short of fantastic to be able to have such a simple remote control all three devices for the most common functions. Only specialty settings require a specific remote. However it becomes an issue of chicken or egg - as control messages to go on or off are carried by HDMI and the power sequence becomes complex - with options to turn on or off IF ... THEN... for all 3! Otherwise the receiver has been a dream to finally restore sound to several rooms in our home from SIriusXM and now several other sources as well, I'm thrilled with the features, new MusiCast control and ease of operation once installed and properly paired for single remote operation. I plan to have this around another 10 years and enjoye the excellent 4K video upscaled by the NVIDIA device and handled beautifully by the receiver to drive the TV in rich color and great 5 Channel Sound.
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Reviewed in the United States on December 25, 2023
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Verified Purchase
Steven Tarren
Draper, US
★★★★★ 4
A great A/V receiver at a great price. Too bad Amazon Customer support is horrible.
Style: 7.2 Receiver, Style: 7.2 Receiver
Pros, 1. A 7.2 channel A/V receiver that can do 5.1.2 Atmos. It also support DTS-X as well. 2. 200 watts total power. Don't let that fool you. It powers my 5.1.2 speaker setup far better than my previous Onkyo TX-NR5100 that's supposed to 80 watts per channel. Also sounds a lot better and clearer. 3. 7 HMDI inputs and 1 HDMI eARC output that support 8k/60hz and 4k/120hz with Dolby Vision. Additional speaker inputs for extra zones for run into other room. 4. Uses banana plugs for easy installation. 5. Has both WIFI and Bluetooth. Also includes an AM/FM antenna as well as a speaker calibration mic. 6. Has two RCA subwoofer input jacks for dual sub units. 7. Very well built and very sturdy unit. Looks very nice. 8. Includes an extremely nice remove control. Cons, 1. It's not the easiest to setup nor the most user friendly. Once setup you should be good, but it's a matter of the learning curves. 2. Make sure you get the latest firmware. You may get unlucky, get an older unit, wonder where all the features are at and why they're not available. 3. Lastly Amazon customer support is utterly horrible and useless. I order this produce and later that day they offered a discount. I called up customer support for a price match and THEY REFUSED TO DO IT!!!! I ended up canceling the order and reordering at the better price and Amazon ended up losing money because they were getting ready to ship the first order. LEARN TO PRICE MATCH LIKE YOUR COMPETITION!!!!!!!! I have this hooked up to my computer for movies and gaming, it works great because of the 120hz pass through. Other than horrible customer support the receiver is great and otherwise I'd have rated it a 5 star. I took one star for the customer support.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2025
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Verified Purchase
Ken
West Palm Beach, US
★★★★★ 5
Review
Style: 7.2 Receiver
So far I’ve been very pleased with the unit although I only use it for powering two large front 4 ohm external speakers while listening to music streaming on apps in the TV. Unlike AVs from both Denon (who I believe has the best tech support) and Onkyo that I returned, when I turn on my Sony Bravia TV with settings enabled for eARC, the Yamaha unit does not automatically turn on and subsequently switch sound to the external speakers. Perhaps it’s possible but it’s not something that I wanted. Additionally, I came to learn that both Denon and Onkyo are owned by the same parent company, which may explain their common behavior. However, the Yamaha receiver does automatically switch to the external speakers when I power it on and I am able to control the AVR volume with my TV remote control. Additionally, with the settings I have on the TV and AVR, when I turn off the AVR, the sound automatically switches back to coming from the TV speakers, and the TV does remain on. Again, something I want to happen. In general, I’ve found that these devices are very complicated with their myriad number of settings on both the TV and the AVR, and it can be very challenging to properly set them. I’m retired now but my undergraduate degree is in electrical engineering from an Ivy League school at a time when we used slide rules to do the mathematics. I would say that it’s not easy to learn how to use the devices with eARC. If you only want to improve the TV sound, I'm guessing that's it's a lot simpler to use a sound bar. In my case, I've had large and expensive 4 ohm front speakers that I wanted to continue to use (my old AVR does not have any HDMI connections) so a sound bar was not an option for me.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 14, 2024
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Verified Purchase
Inksweat
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 1
Sound is fine thus far, but the rest is an exercise in irritation
Style: 7.2 Receiver
I selected this receiver based on spec sheet comparison to other receivers in its general class and price point, as well as reading through ‘professional’ reviews and assessments of various levels of dubiousness. The general specs as far as features and performance were the biggest factor. But there are things that can’t be discovered in ad copy and that are frequently omitted from even the most genuine and considered review. tl;dr: This is a device with an incredible range of functionality that is hidden from the end user by poor documentation practices, and irritating design choices that bury critical menus under unstated tech dependencies. You must have an Android/iPhone capable of running their apps, and a display connected via a video out to get good output from anything but the headphone jack. Thus far the sound output has proven quite satisfactory. It is these other factors that are dragging the rating into the proverbial pit. The display is a bit cheap, and the backlighting across the panel tends to wash things out about half as much as it illuminates. It’s very old tech—but forgivable if the result is better components elsewhere. Still, the display on my mini battery powered air inflator is a crisp full color OLED, so I have my doubts that that is the case here. The biggest problem is the lack of a physical manual. There’s something of a quickstart guide, but when you consider that most of the controls are via the remote and hidden in menu systems and that those menus have a certain opacity to them, it’s not enough information by long shot, especially if you’re not an experiential learner who strongly prefers to dive into the action and see what happens. If you prefer a more studious approach where you don’t even touch a button until you have some idea what it might do, this is going to be more challenging. There are digital manuals. You can get access to the manual via the Yamaha website, or by downloading via an app that exists to serve up Yamaha manuals. This dependence on screens for vital information is grotesque and should be considered unacceptable. There are multiple problems with this approach. One is the assumption the end user is going to have a suitable phone and be comfortable downloading an app and having a manual on a poor screen for reading technical information and diagrams on. I’m also averse to the idea of my manual requiring adequate battery power, and the only touch navigation I find acceptable in a manual is turning a page; for clarity, I mean physically moving a paper page, not tapping or swiping. Call me old fashioned, call me old, but I’ve had failures in these things before. I’ve never had a book fail to work without it being destroyed. Another issue is longevity. I’ve had too many devices outlive the availability of their digital documentation to be on board with that being the only way it is available. An app is also a requirement to get access to bluetooth as an input. Or at least, that is the only way I was able to get it to work, and then only because I decided to see if the “Musiccast” thing was going to get me access to bluetooth. If there is another way, it wasn’t documented, not that the way I found was particularly well documented. There was nothing saying that that was how to get access to bluetooth as an input, only a short sentence saying you had to set the input to bluetooth for it to receive audio over bluetooth—but cycling through inputs via the remote or the dial on the front never reached a bluetooth input until I had set up Musiccast. Musiccast requires a phone with a working wifi radio to connect to it. Once again, this dependence on an app on a phone, and presumption the end user will both have one and be willing to link it up this way is an obscenity. But it’s made worse by having basic labeled functionality hidden behind it, and poorly documented at that. There are at least two separate menu systems, and two means of accessing them. It is possible to access them from the front panel, using a dial, but the interface is incredibly cramped on a tiny display with bad contrast and worse use of space. The other method is using the remote to trigger an overlay on video out, assuming you are using the HDMI out of the receiver to connect to a display. Ultimately, this is required to have full access to to all the settings. The menu on the unit itself is absolutely tiny in what it can do compared to the full functionality of the unit. For example, it is required you access the on screen menu to select which speakers are in use, what kind they are, and whether or not you are wired for Bi-Amp. If you don't set these settings and your setup doesn't match the default setup, you're going to have issues. The app doesn't cover all of this, and for a device that places such heavy emphasis on it's ability to play music, it is very annoying to have to have a display hooked up to have access to critical setup functions--granted, they really want you to buy into their Musiccast eco-system, so much so that the app is only suitable for setting up Musiccast branded speakers. I don't object to having to set things up. While it would be nice if the unit could sense whether or not an output was connected, I realize that with some of those outputs, knowing it is connected isn't sufficient as they might be put to several uses--still, that could be handled with a switch or a system menu on the device itself. There are a few buttons on the front of the receiver, but all but the power button are capacitive buttons, marked in faint white print with poor contrast. I only discovered them when peering at what I had thought was a blank face looking for the “Connect” button called out in the manual to get Musiccast working. These are terrible buttons, and it’s clear the engineers knew it when they made the power button physical. Internet Radio was apparently also locked behind the Musiccast app connection as it didn’t show up as an input until I connected the Musiccast app—again, not documented beyond saying you had to set the input to Internet Radio to use it. Another irritating grievance hidden in menus only accessibly by poking around the on-screen menu, only accessible if you have a display hooked up: Eco mode. In its default state, this will partially shut down after 20 minutes of not processing sound. If hooked up to a display, this will then go to a pass-thru mode, and it will not automatically pick back up again once audio signal is again being sent. For example, you have a console or PC hooked up to HDMI in, and the display hooked up to HDMI out/eArc. If you are using those devices in a video only mode, with no audio signal, whether it's because you paused a game, or simply got lost reading something and the music stopped, after 20 minutes, the audio processing will shut down, there will be a bit of a flicker and a snap as internal routings are switched around, and the unit will no longer output sound. All sound will iinstead be sent to the display as if the receiver didn't exist. This will persist even if you do start sending audio again. It will not turn itself back on even if you swap inputs, though other inputs will work as normal. The only way I've found to get it out of pass-through for that input is power cycling either the receiver or the sending unit. Fortunately this can be changed, unfortunately, you absolutely have to have a display hooked up to access the menus to do so. Overall, the user experience has been underwhelming at best with poor documentation where it exists, an absence of physical documentation, and some terrible choices in terms app dependency. I absolutely hate that I have to use my phone to get access to not just full function but a basic function like being able to pair a bluetooth source to the receiver for playback.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 15, 2025

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