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growing ponytail palms from cuttings

growing ponytail palms from cuttings Shop 'Ponytail palm - Beaucarnea recurvata' Care and Info

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growing ponytail palms from cuttings Shop 'Ponytail palm - Beaucarnea recurvata' Care and InfoIntroducing the ponytail palm, known as Beaucarnea recurvata. Native to Southern Brazil, the ponytail palm is also known as the "elephant's foot palm or elephant foot tree" because of its enlarged lower trunk, which resembles an elephant's foot. Within the agave family, the ponytail palm is a distinct plant that, despite its name, is not a true palm. Its cascading, strap like leaves resemble a ponytail, adding to its unique and elegant appearance.

Introducing the ponytail palm, known as Beaucarnea recurvata. Native to Southern Brazil, the ponytail palm is also known as the "elephant's foot palm or elephant foot tree" because of its enlarged lower trunk, which resembles an elephant's foot.

Within the agave family, the ponytail palm is a distinct plant that, despite its name, is not a true palm. Its cascading, strap-like leaves resemble a ponytail, adding to its unique and elegant appearance. This misconception often arises because its bulbous trunk and graceful foliage evoke the look of a palm tree. Ponytail palms are actually succulents, despite popular belief. Whether it's a succulent or a true palm itself, it adds a touch of tropical flair and botanical fascination to every area of your home. 

This stunning ponytail palm succulent boasts unique features, such as long, slender leaves that cascade gracefully from its bulbous trunk.

Ponytail palms grown in gardens as landscape plants typically grow no taller than 11 feet, while indoors, they rarely exceed 4 feet in height.

The Ponytail Palm is a popular houseplant with a distinctive appearance and a thick, bloated brown stem that stores water at its thick, swollen stem and trunk base, often called a bulb or caudex.

The flowers of the ponytail palm rarely bloom when grown as a houseplant. When it blooms in late winter to early spring, it has small, nocturnal, pure white flowers that appear on long stalks that emerge from the center of your ponytail palm succulent.

The ponytail palm is a slow-growing plant with an impressive lifespan, reportedly living up to 150–200 years. Its longevity and ease of care make it a popular choice for indoor plants, offering beauty and companionship that can last for generations.

The ponytail palm Beaucarnea recurvata, is more closely related to desert plants in the Agave and Yucca genera.

When and How to Water Your Ponytail Palm

Like succulents, the ponytail palm is drought-tolerant with its fleshy, water-storing stems that can hold a lot of water.  However, their root structure is easily susceptible to overwatering, so make sure that you don't overwater, as it can lead to root rot and fungal infections.

In the spring and summer, during the growing season, the ponytail palm prefers regular watering. You'll want to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy. Allow the top few inches of soil to dry out between waterings to prevent overwatering, which can lead to root rot.

In fall and winter, during the dormant period, to reduce the frequency of watering. The Beaucarnea recurvata growth slows down, so it won't require as much water. In spite of the right watering frequency of about 2–3 weeks, ponytail palm Beaucarnea recurvata roots can be damaged if the soil is not fast-draining. 

If you need to pot up a new ponytail palm, choose a container with enough drainage holes. Allow the soil to dry out more between waterings, but don't let it completely dry out. Aim for a balance where the soil is slightly moist but not overly wet. 

Light Requirements - Where to Place Your Ponytail Palm

When growing Ponytail palm indoors, it thrives in bright, indirect light but can also tolerate lower light levels. Placing it near a sunny window or in a well-lit room is ideal. However, be cautious of exposing your ponytail palm to direct, intense sunlight, as it may scorch the leaves. If they don't receive enough bright light, their stems may grow leggy, become paler, and develop curly leaves. So make your ponytail palm happy and give it plenty of light.

If you are growing your ponytail palm outdoors, it can withstand full sun, but it prefers to grow in areas with some partial shade and avoid prolonged direct sunlight.

Learn to adjust your ponytail palm plant to avoid burns if the location where you have Beaucarnea recurvata is exposed to too much direct sunlight. Gradually increase the exposure until it can handle the full sun.

It's critical to remember that during a heatwave or periods of extreme heat, your Beaucarnea recurvata ponytail palm could still sustain sun damage or get sunburned. In this situation, you can protect your ponytail palm by moving it indoors or to a shaded area. 

Optimal Soil & Fertilizer Needs 

When it comes to choosing the right soil for your adorable ponytail palm, you need to be careful. You see, the amount of moisture in the soil can literally make or break your little green friend. You've got root and stem rot faster than you can say "cactus." That's why we at Planet Desert have got your back with our Soil cactus mix blend 1 gal 4 qt cacti succulent dirt compost growing media. This organic mycorrhiza helps grow a healthy root system that makes all those thick, swollen stems stand tall and proud.  As an okay alternative, you can create your own succulent mix by combining equal portions of perlite, coarse sand, and good natural potting soil. 

Ideally, you should look for a natural fertilizer with an approximate blend of 5-10-15 that is higher in phosphorus than nitrogen. The best choice is to use natural fertilizer, as ponytail palm Beaucarnea recurvata lasts longer and keeps your soil alive by adding other beneficial compounds and microbes that encourage ponytail palm health and nutrient absorption. 

Hardiness Zones & More

When it comes to indoor care, this Beaucarnea recurvata ponytail palm prefers average room temperatures between 65 and 75°F, making it suitable for most indoor settings. It can tolerate slightly cooler temperatures, but it's best to avoid extreme cold drafts or sudden temperature fluctuations.

The ponytail palm Beaucarnea recurvata can tolerate average indoor humidity levels, but it appreciates a bit of dry air from time to time. Misting the leaves occasionally or placing the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water can help create a slightly more humid microclimate around the ponytail palms.

If you are living in USDA zones 9–11, you can grow your ponytail palm outdoors year-round. It thrives in warm climates and can tolerate full sun to partial shade outdoors.

 In terms of temperature, it can withstand temperatures as low as 30°F for short periods, but it's generally recommended to protect it from frost and freezing temperatures.

 It can tolerate low humidity levels, making it a great choice for outdoor landscapes in drier regions. However, it's important to note that excessive humidity or prolonged exposure to high humidity can lead to fungal issues or root rot.

Remember, the ponytail palms, as slow-growing species, can't stand frost or too much humidity; therefore, they need warm, dry conditions. A balanced ponytail palm care will help you maintain temperatures and prevent too much moisture.

Wildlife - Ponytail Palm Attracts the Following Friendly Pollinators

The Ponytail Palm has small, fragrant flowers that can attract pollinators such as bees, butterflies, or hummingbirds. While it’s primarily grown as an ornamental indoor plant, providing outdoor exposure during flowering can support local pollinator populations and enhance the plant’s natural beauty.

Butterflies
Bees
Hummingbirds
Lady Bugs
Multi Pollinators
Other Birds

According to the ASPCA, the Ponytail Palm is non-toxic to humans, cats, dogs, and other common household pets. Its pet-friendly nature makes it an excellent choice for homes with animals, as it poses no significant health risk if leaves are chewed or ingested.

How to Propagate Your Ponytail Palm

The ponytail palm can be propagated through seeds or by offshoots that develop around the base of the ponytail palm plant. This method allows for quicker growth and ensures that the new plant retains the same characteristics as the parent plant. Repotting Ponytail palms is best done in the spring when the plant is actively growing. Be sure to use a well-draining potting mix to prevent root rot.

Key Takeaways

  1. The Ponytail Palm features a large, bulbous base known as a caudex, which stores water, making it highly efficient in surviving extended periods of drought.
  2. This plant is exceptionally low-maintenance and thrives in dry conditions, requiring infrequent watering and minimal care, making it perfect for busy individuals.
  3. Its long, narrow, and arching leaves cascade from the top of the trunk, resembling a ponytail, giving the plant its signature look and adding elegance to any space.
  4. The Ponytail Palm is a slow-growing plant, making it ideal for indoor settings, as it maintains its compact size for years with proper care.
  5. The Ponytail Palm is a slow-growing plant, making it ideal for indoor settings, as it maintains its compact size for years with proper care. (duplicate)

Final Thoughts

Overall, the Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is a versatile and low-maintenance plant that can be a wonderful addition to both indoor and outdoor spaces. With its unique appearance and ability to adapt to different light conditions, it can brighten up any room or garden. Indoors, it prefers bright, indirect light and average room temperatures. Outdoors, it thrives in warm climates and can tolerate full sun to partial shade. Don't miss out on this opportunity to add something truly exceptional to your garden. Order your very own Beaucarnea recurvata, or ponytail palm, today!

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life is good
Grantham, US
★★★★★ 5
Enlightening!
Format: Paperback
A history of Monroe's discoveries and seminars I took his seminars in the 1993-4 periods Excellent beyond my expectations
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Reviewed in the United States on April 3, 2025
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GiveHerAGoodMunchin
New York, US
★★★★★ 5
Excellent trilogy. This is book 2
Format: Paperback
Bob Monroe is an OG OBE G. Love this trilogy. If you can read, read this
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Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2025
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Joe Neal
Louisville, US
★★★★★ 5
Great (excellent) details for the date written
Format: Paperback
NOTE: I toned this version down in 2021 – I was in a bad place when I wrote the original and there were some hostile and entirely inaccurate personal remarks in it. A few tables/charts with a wealth of information have tiny text but most of this was easy enough to read. The photos are poorly produced (at least in the paperback version I reviewed), which is sad given they would be so handy otherwise. This is a classic post-war treatise on the weapons used for ground warfare during World War II by the U.S. Army and as such the Marines. It was first published around 1947 when the war was fresh and doubtlessly numerous technical details were still classified. It was written by a man intimately involved in many design projects. The coverage pretty much explains the breadth. Examples of use are included for some weapons and detailed tables of data for many. He explains references to the "long primer" for the 76-mm gun and the 81-mm mortar T1 extension tube. I am happy to have bought it for that and numerous other details. One thing I missed when I first wrote the original rambling, a bit over the top review back in September 2015 was that the 57mm M1 antitank gun is not mentioned even though it was a key component of Infantry weaponry in 1944-45, sometimes maligned but often quite effective when carefully used as noted in many, many detailed accounts. Perhaps it was skipped because it was a revision of the British 6 pounder and not designed by Barnes men? Yet, it is an example of the issues caused by the pre war budget minders forcing the Army into desperate choices as explained later – and the using arms who decided to adopt it almost at the last minute, late in 1943. Until a weapon is adopted by the Army ammunition cannot be developed – it costs too much money and time to do so. Most of the book is positive and ignores failures, posed from the viewpoint of a proud designer not an actual user. Yet those failures illustrate the issues Ordnance had to deal with during the war. The U.S. invented the bazooka as the 2.36-inch model in 1942 yet the Germans fielded the more powerful 8.8-cm (88mm) model in 1944; and the U.S. did not get the 3.5-inch (90mm) into production-ready state until the war was ended. This was caused by offloading development onto people who went out for a “super rocket launcher” that had no place in the war. All too often, some excited designers did indeed get ahead of themselves when it came to what worked but was a bit too much (and ultimately impractical for the Army at the time). The inability to develop hollow-charge (HEAT) ammo for cannon and howitzers to reach its minimum potential (twice the caliber in penetration or better) was common for all countries including the U.S. The 105mm howitzer round was pretty good and while disparaged by all and sundry even the 75mm howitzer’s shell could (and did) take out medium armor. Barnes refers to the M3 and M5 light tank as "excellent" when the tanker's epithet would have been "tin plated coffin with a pea-shooter". Here we have an issue with comparing numbers such as armor thickness and penetration power of guns to facts; it is common to think they were butchered such as in Africa when in fact they fought well enough, flaws and all. But they were not the weapons the tankers wanted (nor deserved), and thus tanker’s complaints were valid. And, yes, they were not seen as a prime resource for fighting German tanks and hence reverted to recon and infantry support roles. Where they continued to meet and destroy German armor (but also be destroyed). Any German field commander would have loved to have a battalion of M5s on hand chasing down and chewing up U.S. troops; the contribution of the men in the light tanks in Europe in 1944 and 1945 is all too often belittled by the “number nerds” who toss the light tanks off as useless. They were anything but useless. Why were the M10, M18, and M36 designed as “Gun Motor Carriages” and not tanks? Because they were developed for the tank destroyer forces and the very bigoted officers who held the most sway on development wanted them to be nothing but “motorized antitank guns”. If they had been designed as tanks that would have invalidated Tank Destroyer Doctrine immediately. And yet, in the end, the men doing the fighting needed and wanted tanks, so they used them as tanks as much as they could, despite the open roof and lack of internal machine guns. It is claimed the gun motor carriages were cheaper than tanks (a specious argument given price varied by manufacturer and ultimately depended more on quantities produced not some arbitrary raw number) but to produce the gun motor carriages for a specialist role that was neither tank nor artillery (albeit they were used for both) was a costly thing to do. The failure to develop a better light tank in time is not mentioned even though the T7 light tank with a 57-mm gun was ready in mid-1942 and could have been in the field around 1943 (the Armored Forces botched that one). The M24 was a nice tank but too late simply because development came too late because development had been stunted badly by congress and it’s miserly pre-1941 budget. There are errors: The design of the M24 began in 1943, not 1945. The 76-mm gun could hardly penetrate the "...heaviest German tank armor." But it could penetrate a lot of armor and the myth that all German tanks were Tigers and Panthers is one of those fantasies of the war pursued by people who are glorifying the war not understanding it (most German armor was medium or lighter), let alone the myth that they were always met head-on is ridiculous. The 90-mm gun was not optimized for anti-tank use and hence had the same issues with dealing with the frontal armor of the Panther (though it could handle the Tiger) and yet was better at that than many other guns. The tendency to adapt anti-aircraft guns for anti-tank guns was common and is where Germany got its 88s and the 128mm. The U.S. found it did not need a lot of 90mms (the homeland was not threatened and what it produced was enough for its needs); there was never the demand for a higher altitude version and hence nothing like the 8.8cm FLAK 41 was developed which led to the 8.8cm Kwk43 and Pak43s; yet Ordnance built their own versions of hot 90mm for tank use. I missed the boat in my original review failing to detail how the Army’s main issue was the budget provided by Congress and politicians from 1920 through 1940. They starved the Army; the U.S. was peaceful and they had no interest in making it a military country and as such kept the Army small (and starved the air forces and Navy as well but not as badly). This crippled development; while the Soviets started building a modern Army in 1930 complete with investment in tank forces and tank arsenals; the Germans in 1934 or so; and British in 1934 or so; the U.S. politicians did not begin serious spending on the Army until 1941. Before then, the budget was all about “beans, bullets, and bayonets” and of course bodes to wield them. The Army had to struggle with what it had and put to field what was practical not what was best. Thus, for example, the recoilless rifles (used by the Germans in 1940) did not arrive in U.S. use until 1945. And yet a U.S. officer bult the first recoilless rifle to be used way back around 1916. Indeed, a brief little discussion on how the U.S. produced what it did based on budget would have opened many eyes. The Soviets produced so many thousand T34s for example, more than the U.S. – and in the U.S. the budget people were always saying, “You don’t need any more, stop building them!” As mentioned, the number of 90mm AA guns the U.S. produced was not based on manufacturing capacity but because they didn’t need more. Thus - there is a lot of information and many details many people will never have heard before. There are also many missing details concerning the Ordnance Department struggles to get things done in a very brief time frame thanks to how Congress had refused to let them do anything earlier. Dig into that deeper and you might find it nauseating the way people played games that hindered the U.S. Army in its job of helping beat the Germans. And sometimes couldn't put 2 and 2 together to get the right answer. But, they were human after all, and people do make mistakes. In my original review I argued that “If you want a politics free book you will not get it in this once, not unless you shut your eyes and remain ignorant . . .” but that is wrong. If this was a political book, Barnes might have ripped the budget mongers of the 1920s and 1930s a new sphincter for leaving the Army (and U.S. military as a whole) in such a bad situation as they did when war broke out. But, Barnes had more class than I do.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 19, 2015
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Petey K
Omaha, US
★★★★★ 5
Good content, very small print and photos
Format: Paperback
Get a magnifying glass… the print is tiny. They must have made this book to be a large hard cover because both the print and the photos are so small in paperback. Content looks decent. It’s a gift for my grandson who will probably spend more time with the photos than the reading anyway and his eyesight is better than mine. :D
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Reviewed in the United States on December 16, 2025
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Museum Man
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 4
Printing not up to standards.
Format: Paperback
Printing and pics not up to par.I gifted this book to a coworker and he was not as picky as I.
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Reviewed in the United States on March 8, 2020

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