SKU: 11424446730
philodendron red rudolph

philodendron red rudolph Philodendron 'Sun Red' – Foliage Factory

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Description

philodendron red rudolph Philodendron 'Sun Red' – Foliage FactoryPhilodendron 'Sun Red' Philodendron 'Sun Red' is a compact, colour changing Philodendron with new leaves that open in red, coppery red or orange red tones before maturing toward darker green. A growing plant can show fresh red growth near the centre, warmer transitional leaves and older green leaves around the outside. This cultivar has a self heading habit, forming clustered leaves from a short central stem. Each new leaf changes from red at

Philodendron 'Sun Red'

Philodendron 'Sun Red' is a compact, colour-changing Philodendron with new leaves that open in red, coppery red or orange-red tones before maturing toward darker green. A growing plant can show fresh red growth near the centre, warmer transitional leaves and older green leaves around the outside.

This cultivar has a self-heading habit, forming clustered leaves from a short central stem. Each new leaf changes from red at emergence through warmer transitional tones, then darker and greener once the blade has hardened.

Red new leaves on a compact Philodendron

  • Growth habit: A self-heading Philodendron with clustered leaves and a short central stem.
  • Leaf colour: New growth opens red to copper-red, then matures through warmer tones toward green.
  • Leaf shape: Leaves are broad, smooth and lightly glossy, with enough firmness to hold a tidy outline.
  • Indoor size: Its short-stemmed habit keeps the plant dense, balanced and suited to pot culture.

How Philodendron 'Sun Red' changes colour

Philodendron 'Sun Red' shows its richest colour during active growth. The youngest leaves carry the strongest warm red tones, then deepen gradually as the leaf hardens. A regular sequence of new leaves keeps several colour stages visible on the plant at once.

The central growth point should stay open to light and airflow. If the plant is crowded between taller plants, new leaves may lean or expand unevenly. Rotate the pot regularly and remove dry sheaths once they release naturally.

Care for short-stemmed growth

  • Light: Place in bright indirect light. Gentle morning or late-day sun can be tolerated after acclimation, but harsh direct sun can scorch the leaf surface.
  • Watering: Water when the top 3–5 cm of substrate has dried. Let the root ball rehydrate evenly, then allow air back into the mix before watering again.
  • Substrate: Use a chunky aroid mix with good drainage and air space. Dense, fine substrate keeps the lower roots too wet and increases yellowing risk.
  • Humidity: Moderate humidity supports smoother leaf unfurling. A humidifier, grouped plants or a cabinet can help if new leaves stick or tear while opening.
  • Temperature: Keep warm, ideally 18–27 °C. Growth slows in cool conditions, especially if the substrate is also wet.
  • Feeding: Feed lightly during active growth. Small, regular feeding is safer than strong doses, which can stress compact root systems.
  • Pot choice: Use a pot with drainage and enough weight to keep the plant balanced. Avoid jumping to a much larger pot while the root system is still small.
  • Leaf cleaning: Wipe dust from older leaves gently. Clean leaves receive light more evenly and make pest checks easier.

Growth problems to check early

  • Pale or weak new leaves: Check light level and nutrient supply. Move the plant into brighter indirect light and resume light feeding during active growth.
  • Yellow leaves near the base: Check for wet substrate, poor drainage or an oversized pot. Let the mix dry slightly deeper before the next watering.
  • Stuck new leaves: Check humidity, airflow and root moisture. Dry air combined with irregular watering can make the emerging leaf catch inside the sheath.
  • Brown tips: Look for drying between waterings, fertiliser build-up or cold stress. Flush the substrate if salts have built up.
  • Marked new growth: Inspect the newest leaves first for thrips or mites, because soft red tissue shows damage quickly.

Pet safety for Philodendron 'Sun Red'

Philodendron 'Sun Red' should be kept away from pets and small children. Like other Philodendron, it can contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals that may irritate the mouth and digestive tract if chewed or swallowed. Wash your hands after cutting or removing damaged leaves.

Botanical background

Philodendron belongs to the Araceae family and is native as a genus to tropical parts of the Americas. The genus name combines Greek roots commonly translated as “love” and “tree”, reflecting the tree-associated growth of many species.

Philodendron 'Sun Red' grows as a dense self-heading plant with red to coppery new leaves that mature toward green.

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SKU: 11424446730

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The Logitech M510 wireless mouse is a very comfortable and smoothly performing mouse. It is a full size mouse that nicely fills up the palm of the hand. The weight of the mouse is "just right". The mouse body is symmetrical so that will be equally comfortable for left or right handed people. The mouse movement and scroll wheel work perfectly smoothly with no jump or jitter. The mouse optical performance is very robust on poor surfaces. It works equally well on a mousepad, a bare table, on a pants leg, back of a book, even the palm of the hand. It tracks perfectly on almost any surface (which many other mouse brands have trouble with). These mice use the Logitech "Unifying" USB mini receiver which can support up to six Logitech devices by itself. If you have a Logitech mouse, keyboard, trackball, etc... they can all operate from the same receiver (saves using up USB ports). Be aware that the unifying receiver ONLY works with Logitech products and that it is NOT Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. Logitech products can be "paired" with the unifying receiver in Windows and MAC (of course) and also in Linux by using the software package called "solaar" (free, open source). The mouse comes pre-paired to the receiver, so it works "out of the box". If you want to add (up to 5 more devices), you have to pair them yourself. The battery life is awesome. Because I hate leaking batteries, I always use AA lithium cells for everything (including the mouse). My first old Logitech MS-510 mouse that I purchased over three years ago is still working fine on the FIRST batteries that I installed in it (two AA lithium). Since I use it on my desktop the mouse power switch is always left on. It must consume practically no power when not being used. If you use the mouse with a laptop or need to move it from computer to computer, the little unifying receiver can be stored inside the mouse (in a little USB sized slot next to the batteries) to avoid losing it. What follows is some technical information that you can skip if you don't care. Construction: This mouse is very nicely engineered and can be completely disassembled by removing two little screws inside the battery compartment. No screws hide under the teflon slider pads, so those don't get damaged if you take the mouse apart. Every component then can be removed simply by sliding or snapping it out. Why take it apart? See next. My personal feeling is that the left and right mouse buttons are too light (i.e. press too easily). The buttons are no lighter than other mice, I just prefer them a bit tighter. To change this, I replace the two little microswitches with Omron Series D2F-01 parts that have a 150 gf actuation force. It takes about twice the pressure to click these switches as compared to the originals. To replace them is super simple: Just unsolder the originals and solder the new ones in place. If you forget which way they go in, the orientation is printed on the PC board. The side "scroll" buttons already use heavier pressure microswitches, so I don't change these. The "middle button" (pressing the scroll wheel) and the left/right scroll switches (rock the scroll wheel left or right) are a different type of switch that also do not need changing. If you disassemble the mouse, be aware that the little plastic slider for the power switch will be free to fall out when the mouse PC board is removed. If you don't know this, it's possible for the slider to silently fall out, never to be seen again. I won't tell you HOW to unsolder and resolder the button microswitches, because if you don't know how, you shouldn't be doing jt in the first place (or get an electronics-knowledgable friend to help). And, of course opening and modifying the mouse will void the warranty! I will give you one important hint: Because the mouse was assembled using RoHS compliant lead free solder, the microswitch solder joints should first be RE-SOLDERED with leaded solder before sucking or wicking the joints clean. This is done to "alloy" the high temperature lead free solder into more manageable leaded solder to avoid burning/ruining the (single sided) PC board. Good luck! This mouse (hacked or not) gets 5 stars and both thumbs up. It works flawlessly, it's comfortable, battery life is amazing and the price is good (even better when it's sometimes on sale). Grab one!
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